Tomatoland

Barry Estabrook

6 ideas

  1. Mature-green picking and ethylene gassing

    Florida winter tomatoes are harvested hard and green, when they can survive mechanical handling and long-distance shipping. They are then exposed to ethylene gas in warehouses to trigger red coloration.

  2. Hostile terrain forces chemical-dependent farming

    Florida's sandy, nutrient-poor soil and hot, humid climate make it one of the worst places to grow tomatoes, because the fruit evolved in dry Andean conditions. Growers make it viable by treating the ground as an inert medium, fumigating it and feeding it synthetic fertilizer. They then fight constant pest and fungal pressure with a large arsenal of pesticides. Florida's market advantage is winter timing, not agronomic fitness, and chemistry covers the gap.

  3. Breeding for shipping sacrificed tomato flavor

    Commercial tomato varieties have been selected for yield, uniform size, firmness and disease resistance, because growers are paid by weight and appearance, not taste. Flavor genes and flavor compounds were lost along the way, since nobody in the price chain rewarded them. Flavor researchers such as Harry Klee show that the loss is genetic and measurable, not just a result of how the fruit is handled.

  4. Ag-Mart workers and limbless infant

    In 2004–2005, three women who worked in the same Ag-Mart tomato fields gave birth within weeks of each other to babies with severe birth defects. One of them, Carlitos Candelario, was born without arms or legs. The women had been sent into fields soon after spraying, in violation of re-entry rules. The regulatory penalties that followed were minor, which shows how weakly pesticide exposure law protects pregnant farmworkers.

  5. Navarrete slavery case in Immokalee

    In 2008, members of the Navarrete family were convicted of holding tomato pickers in debt bondage. The workers were beaten, locked in trucks and sheds, and charged for food and housing so their debts never shrank. The case was one of several slavery prosecutions in Florida fields. It shows how layers of crew bosses and labor contractors let growers profit from coerced labor while keeping legal distance from it.

  6. Penny-per-pound buyer-funded wage premium

    The Coalition of Immokalee Workers bypassed the growers, who had resisted it, and pressured the large buyers instead: fast-food chains and supermarkets. Buyers agreed to pay one extra cent per pound, passed directly to pickers, and to purchase only from farms that follow a code of conduct with independent monitoring. The approach turns concentrated purchasing power at the top of the supply chain into leverage over labor conditions at the bottom.

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