The Raw and the Cooked

Jim Harrison

4 ideas

  1. Dietary puritanism impoverishes the life it protects

    Harrison argues that the American habit of treating food as a health risk, counting fat and moralizing about appetite, turns eating into a source of guilt rather than pleasure. A person who spends their meals fearing death has given up much of what makes staying alive worthwhile. He treats appetite admitted without apology as a form of honesty about being a creature, not as a failure of discipline.

  2. Hunting as the honest end of eating

    Harrison treats killing, cleaning and cooking the grouse, woodcock or deer he eats as the most direct way to face what a meal actually costs. Buying shrink-wrapped meat hides the death behind it. Hunting forces the eater to take responsibility for it, and that responsibility deepens the eater's respect for the food.

  3. Cooking as a practical antidote to despair

    Harrison presents the physical work of cooking as a reliable way to pull himself out of depression and obsessive thinking. Chopping, braising and tending a pot demand concrete attention and yield a result that can be shared. The kitchen works for him as a daily discipline that keeps the mind tied to the body and to other people.

  4. Peasant food over restaurant pretension

    Harrison ranks slow, fat-rich regional peasant cooking, such as French country stews, braised game and garlic-heavy dishes, above fashionable restaurant food built on small portions and elaborate plating. He judges a dish by its depth of flavor and its capacity to satisfy real hunger. How clever it looks and how much status it confers count for nothing.

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