A woman crossing Syria through sheikhs' protection
In early 1905 Gertrude Bell rode from Jerusalem east of the Jordan, through the Hauran and the Druze stronghold of Jebel Druze, then north through inland Syria to Antioch. Her passage depended on letters, guides and guarantees from Bedouin sheikhs and Druze chiefs, not on Ottoman authority, which was thin on the steppe. Nights in their tents and guest-rooms supplied the conversations she recorded as the substance of the book.
