Simple French Food

Richard Olney

3 ideas

  1. Menu as composed sequence of contrasts

    A meal is built as a progression in which each course prepares the palate for the next through contrast and relief, rather than a set of independently excellent dishes. A rich course is followed by something lighter or sharper, and textures, sauces, and main ingredients are not repeated across courses. Dish choices therefore depend on their position in the sequence.

  2. Wines ascend in step with courses

    Wines are ordered so that each one flatters the next: lighter before fuller, younger before older, dry before sweet. The finest wine is placed at the point in the meal best suited to it, and the food at that point is kept simple so that it supports the wine rather than competing with it.

  3. Improvisation over recipes as fixed formulas

    Recipes are illustrations of methods and principles, not formulas to reproduce exactly. A cook who understands why a technique works, such as how a braise concentrates flavor or how a gratin forms its crust, can adapt it to the ingredients the market and season actually provide. This produces better food than faithful measurement.

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