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Raw denim shrinks unpredictably after washing, so sanforization mechanically pre-shrinks the fabric by compressing it between heated rollers and a rubber belt before garment construction. This stabilizes final dimensions, while leaving denim un-sanforized ('shrink-to-fit') deliberately transfers the shrinkage decision to the wearer's first wash.
Denim is woven with indigo-dyed warp threads and undyed white weft threads, producing the blue face and white back of the fabric. Because indigo bonds only to the surface of each warp yarn rather than penetrating the core, abrasion gradually reveals the white interior, which is what produces the prized fading and contrast patterns over time.
Denim is graded by the weight of one square yard in ounces, with lightweight (under ~12 oz), mid-weight (12–16 oz), and heavyweight (over 16 oz) categories. This single number predicts drape, durability, break-in time, and intended application, letting a maker match fabric to garment purpose before any styling decision.